Bosnia and Herzegovina: Sarajevo and Mostar
Bosnia and Herzegovina for first-time visitors: Sarajevo's layered Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian history, the Mostar day trip, and what the convertible mark buys.
Walk east to west across Sarajevo's centre and the architecture changes at almost a single street corner — Ottoman-era Baščaršija gives way to grand Austro-Hungarian boulevards, a physical record of the two empires that shaped the city. The 1990s siege is present too, in memorials and in buildings still marked by it, without ever feeling like the whole point of a visit. It's also one of the cheapest capitals in Europe to spend a few days in, which makes it an easy add-on to a wider Balkans trip.
Getting around#
Mostar is a two-and-a-half-hour bus south of Sarajevo, an easy day trip to see the rebuilt Stari Most bridge and the old town around it. Bosnia's rail network is limited and slow — a scenic Sarajevo–Mostar train does exist, but with only a couple of departures a day, buses are the more practical option for most travellers. Within Sarajevo itself, the old town and surrounding neighbourhoods are walkable, with trams covering the longer stretches.
What it costs#
Bosnia and Herzegovina is one of the least expensive countries to travel in this part of Europe. A mid-range traveller can expect around $40–70 a day for accommodation, food and local transport — noticeably less than Croatia or Slovenia next door for a comparable standard of hotel and restaurant.
When to go#
May and September are mild and quieter; midsummer in Mostar in particular gets hot and busy with day-trippers from the coast. Sarajevo sits in a valley and gets genuinely cold, snowy winters — atmospheric for a short visit, but pack for it if you're coming between December and February.
What to know before you go#
Convertible marks aren't easy to exchange once you've left the country, so spend down your cash or change it back before crossing the border rather than after. Cards are increasingly accepted in Sarajevo and Mostar's tourist areas, but smaller guesthouses and rural stops still often expect cash.
What to skip on a first trip#
- Rushing Sarajevo in a single day. Baščaršija, the Tunnel of Hope museum and the surrounding hills each deserve more than a few rushed hours between a Mostar day trip.
- Assuming ATMs are everywhere outside the main cities. Withdraw what you need in Sarajevo or Mostar before heading to smaller towns.
Ready to plan your Bosnia and Herzegovina trip?
Add your dates and TravPlanner builds a full day-by-day itinerary — free, no card required.
Build a free itineraryFrequently asked questions
Do I need a visa to visit Bosnia and Herzegovina?+
Bosnia and Herzegovina is not in the EU or the Schengen area, but most US, UK, EU and Canadian passport holders can enter visa-free for up to 90 days in any 180-day period on their own separate allowance — it doesn't count against or share a Schengen 90-day limit. Confirm the current rule for your own passport before booking.
What currency does Bosnia and Herzegovina use?+
The convertible mark (BAM), pegged to the euro at a fixed rate. Euros are sometimes accepted informally in tourist areas, but plan to use marks for everyday spending, especially outside Sarajevo and Mostar.
Is Bosnia and Herzegovina in the EU?+
No. It's an EU candidate country with accession negotiations underway since 2024, but actual membership is likely still years away.
Is Mostar a day trip or worth staying overnight?+
Most visitors do it as a day trip from Sarajevo (about two and a half hours each way by bus) or en route to the Croatian coast. Staying a night lets you see the Old Bridge lit up in the evening and early morning before the tour buses arrive.
Sources & references
- Tourism Bosnia and HerzegovinaTourism Bosnia and Herzegovina